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Buggered bleed nipple threads in caliper- suggestions?

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Buggered bleed nipple threads in caliper- suggestions? Empty Buggered bleed nipple threads in caliper- suggestions?

Post by Monglord Tue Jul 25, 2017 11:12 pm

Whilst overhauling the zombie rear brake I snapped the bleed nipple, a neighbour drilled out the remains and re-tapped it at his work but has done a rather sloppy job- better than I could have done I suspect but it's barely sealing now.
There are no used calipers on eBay atm ( apart from proper manky ones from the states which I'd rather avoid) and brand new they're £180.
I can just about bleed with it and it sort of seals but I'm not overly confident that it'll stand up to a heavy emergency braking scenario, it pisses out around the threads more than through the nipple as it should- not good.
I found mention of using ptfe tape around the threads which could help in the short term but it's not ideal at all, this was suggested for worn threads but the threads on mine are a little past 'worn' !

Peoples feedback on repair options please, whaddaya think of these ideas:
Would it be possible to fill the threads with ally weld and re-tap?
Chemical metal and re-tap?
Bearing in mind the nature of brake calipers and particle contamination from welding (spatter)/ chemical metal (never used it) entering the internal galleries- I suppose this could be flushed out with an airline/ brake cleaner?

Capt. Dan, has your breaker guy got any Goldwing rear brake calipers that you know of?
I'm not expecting you to know his entire inventory but just off the top of your heed.
I'm fairly sure mine is from a 1984 GL1200 (has a number 32 cast into it on the front edge)
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Post by spotarama Wed Jul 26, 2017 1:20 am

get it drilled out again and use a bigger nipple (ooer missus) off a car (something euro or jap so it is metric)
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Post by esox Wed Jul 26, 2017 7:45 am

Remove the fucked up bleed nipple, drill and tap the hole oversize to accept a normal bolt/cap/grubscrew to block it off  - use threadseal to ensure no leaks, then use a combined banjo bolt/bleed nipple - you`ll have to search ebay for them as i`m not authorised to post hyperlinks!


Last edited by esox on Thu Jul 27, 2017 8:04 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : leeks? FFS)
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Post by Monglord Wed Jul 26, 2017 2:30 pm

Two good suggestions there I wouldn't have thought of and sound way better than what I had in mind, cheers chaps Very Happy
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Post by spotarama Thu Jul 27, 2017 3:00 am

admit it, you had a fecking great big hammer in mind didn't you ?

uncle rex would have fixed it with a bit of strimmer line and an old candle, where's your gumption man ?
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Post by Monglord Thu Jul 27, 2017 7:04 pm

Hmm, my gumption on this one is locked away in a cupboard- I'm wearing my sensible parent hat for this situation.
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Post by moldwing Fri Jul 28, 2017 2:14 pm

is that a 2 piston opposed type caliper? eithere way I dont have one so no point asking really

as far as repairs I think the banjo bleed nipple combo essox mentioned is the easyest and I would not have throught of it.

Welding would mean stripping the caliper right down because the heat would fuck the seals and youd need it clean for TIG. chemical metal is just nasty

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Post by moldwing Fri Jul 28, 2017 2:16 pm

Hahah Im alowed to post links bounce

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Post by Monglord Fri Jul 28, 2017 4:11 pm

Noice, yeah that's what I need to do- still gotta strip the caliper but as it's only been done 3 wks ago it should be fine.
Will prolly try tapping a 9/ 10mm thread to blank off the offending hole.

I'll let y'all know how it goes.
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Post by Monglord Sat Aug 26, 2017 6:33 pm

Update:
So, a month later I've sorted it Rolling Eyes

Turns out PTFE tape round the bleed nipple threads did the trick, but not before I'd investigated the caliper EsoX very kindly mailed to me.

To use it I'd need to find out what flavour of CX the caliper came from and order the seals for it (thought I had some already), the pad retaining pins are too long on my current caliper to fit the other one properly but I wouldn't see that being an issue- strange what differences there are between calipers with a 2mm difference between pistons.

Anyway, nearly two hours of bleeding saw an apparent end to the minute bubbles of air and murky gunk which were coming from the system Shocked

The rear brakes do seem a bit better now, the bike one at least locks on an unmade surface from a slow speed- I would like to bleed the chair wheel brake too but that's a two man job so it can wait a while.

I'll give it a proper road test tomorrow, now it's time for a shower and down to my local to see what their real ale festival is like Very Happy
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